Port region moving towards general declaration

Cockburns is amongst the port houses declaring a vintage for 2011
Cockburns is amongst the port houses declaring a vintage for 2011

The Sogrape group was the first to declare its 2011 vintage, with many others from Portugal's Douro region having since followed its lead.

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13 May 2013

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Portugal’s Douro region appears to be moving toward a general vintage declaration for the ports of 2011. First out of the traps was the Sogrape group, which has said that 2011 had "the finest ageing potential" of almost any vintage for its Sandeman, Ferreira and Offley labels. Next to declare was the Symington Family, owners of Dow’s, Warre’s, Graham’s and Cockburns. Symingtons have only declared two other vintages- 2003 and 2007 – since 2000 and they say that the 2011 wines are "exceptional". According to head winemaker, Charles Symington, they are showing "an unusual combination of elegance with power and structure".

In accordance with its own traditional practice, Fladgate Partnership, owner of Croft, Fonseca and Taylor’s, made its announcement on 23 April, St. George’s Day, with managing director, Adrian Bridge, describing the wines as "textbook" styles which are "classics in every sense". He also announced that, in response to consumer and collector demand, Fladgate would issue limited numbers of large format bottles, including double magnums and imperials. Churchills has also declared 2011. Some of the smaller houses have yet to make their intentions clear but experts say that impressive autumn tastings of wines such as Ramos Pinto make it likely that a vintage declaration will be almost universal.

Curiously enough, the 2011 vintage looked tricky enough at first. There was a prolonged drought in early summer, right through to July, and it was evident that grape tannins were not ripening as fully as desired. Then, in August, came the longed for rains; humidity rose, the vines were less stressed and ripening came on steadily. A further dry period in September, with cooler nights, steadied that ripening process, allowing tannin and acidity levels to remain in sufficient balance to ensure that the wines had both colour and concentration.

Only the finest selections from the finest vineyards are chosen to form part of the vintage port offering. Of all the Graham’s ports, for example, less than 10% will be aged and bottled under vintage designation. This will amount to just 8,000 bottles, with 5,000 of Dow’s, 3,000 of Warre’s and 3,000 of Cockburns. Full pricing information from all the port houses should emerge shortly.

 

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